Antarctica Lamare Channel

Things Nobody Tells You About Visiting Antarctica: Insights From My HX Expedition

Visiting Antarctica is one of the most extraordinary travel experiences on the planet. Do you imagine sparkling white landscapes, penguins, dramatic icebergs and wildlife encounters straight out of a documentary? I did too! However, what most people (including myself) do not imagine are the surprising, funny and emotional realities that make an expedition cruise to the White Continent so unforgettable.

Having recently returned from my own voyage with HX Expeditions, I can attest that while everything I expected was breathtaking, it was the unexpected moments that truly defined the trip.

Antarctica is not simply a place you look at. It is something you feel, hear, smell and laugh your way through. Here are the things nobody tells you about visiting Antarctica, and the things I wish I had known before I went.

Antarctica

1. The smell of penguin colonies may take you by surprise

Lots of penguins to see when visiting Antarctica.
Penguin pooing
Image courtesy of Karen Drury

Penguins are adorable, but nothing prepares you for the smell of hundreds (or even thousands) of them living together. The mix of guano, mud and krill is unforgettable, and those first few minutes near a colony are definitely eye watering.

You do adjust quickly, and honestly it becomes part of the experience. They are also completely covered in each otherโ€™s poo, which somehow makes them even more endearing. It is messy, chaotic and absolutely hilarious to witness up close.

2. Penguin highways are real and you must respect them

Penguin highway

Something else I did not expect is that penguins have proper highways. They follow well worn paths with absolute determination, and you must never cross or block them.

At one landing a line of penguins stopped right in front of our group and stared at us for a moment, as though deciding whether we were worth acknowledging. Encounters like that are what make Antarctica feel so special. You are a guest in their world.

3.You may overheat more than you freeze

Sunshine and views

Another surprise is how warm you can get. Most people imagine Antarctica as freezing, but we were incredibly lucky with what the captain described as once in a lifetime weather. We had four consecutive sunny, blue sky days.

In fact it was warmer in Antarctica than during my trip to Finland last December (Yes I know one was winter and one was summer but i genuinely expected Antarctica to be as cold as London in November or other destinations in Europe in winter!)

Wrapped in layers, waterproof trousers and your lifejacket, you warm up fast, especially when you are hiking or moving around.

Overheating becomes more of an issue than the cold. My best advice is to take a small backpack so you can remove your hat, gloves or neck warmer as soon as you start to feel warm.

4.Getting dressed is a workout you did not know you signed up for

Tracy with pole
Muck boots
Muck boots

Getting dressed for each landing is practically a workout. Base layers, mid layers, thick socks, waterproofs, boots, gloves, hat and then the lifejacket all need to be done in the right order.

The good news is that you become quicker! After eight landings, a zodiac cruise, and kayaking, I had definitely mastered the routine.

5. The silence is almost unbelievable

Penguins

Then there is the silence. It is hard to describe just how still Antarctica can be. When the wind drops and everything becomes calm, the silence feels almost physical.

Mixed with that are the natural sounds that belong only to Antarctica, like the deep exhale of a whale surfacing or the low rumble of a glacier shifting in the distance. Those moments are incredibly moving.

6. Icebergs become an obsession

Blue iceburg

Icebergs quickly become an obsession. No two icebergs are the same, and they seem to change every few minutes as the light moves. Some look like sculptures, others like castles, and some are so blue they almost look artificial.

I took so many photos and still feel as though none of them capture what it was actually like to see them in person.

7. Zodiac rides feel like real exploration

On the zodiac

Zodiac rides were another highlight. Every zodiac trip felt like its own adventure. You might get splashed if the conditions are lively!

8. Your phone battery may drain faster than you expect

Antarctica seventh continent

Cold weather often drains phone batteries quickly, although I did not have this issue because our temperatures were milder than usual.

On a typical voyage it is wise to keep a portable charger inside your jacket where it stays warm.

You won’t want to miss the opportunity for shots like this!

9. It doesn’t matter how many photos you take it won’t be enough

Beautiful Antarctica

I took a LOT. I wish I had taken more.

10. You will get attached to penguins

Tracy and the penguins

And yes, you will get attached to penguins. It only takes one penguin waddling confidently towards you, pausing for a quick look, and suddenly you feel completely invested.

You cheer for them as they try to climb hills and laugh when they trip and pretend they meant to do it.

We saw several species, and by the end of the trip, I could identify 5 types of penguins! My husband is very impressed!

11. There will be a moment that makes you emotional

Ice flow

At some point, Antarctica will make you emotional. For me, it was a mixture of silence, sunlight on ice and seeing wildlife so close that it felt unreal. It might be different for you, but nearly everyone has a moment that catches them off guard.

12. The scale of the landscape is impossible to capture

The scale of Antarctica

Nothing can prepare you for the scale of the landscape. Mountains rise straight out of the water. Glaciers stretch endlessly. Ice shelves tower above you. No photo will ever capture it. It is something you have to stand in front of to understand.

13. You will start noticing birds you never knew existed

Albatross
OK not Antarctica but Albatross’s on West Point Island Falklands

And surprisingly, you start noticing and caring about birds you may never have thought about before.

Skuas, Antarctic terns and snow petrels suddenly become fascinating. Our HX Expedition onboard expert, Lancy, was incredible and taught us so much about the wildlife, including how to draw penguins, which was so much fun.

14. You may not come home a different person, but the experience stays with you

Tracy dressed

People talk about Antarctica being life-changing. I cannot say that I came home a completely different person, but I know that the experience will stay with me.

It is still very fresh in my mind and I keep replaying small moments and sounds. There is something about Antarctica that settles into your memory in a quiet but lasting way.

Final thoughts

Antarctica is remote, wild and breathtaking. It surprises you, challenges you, and delights you in ways impossible to anticipate fully. The unexpected moments, both funny and emotional, are often the ones you remember most.

If you are planning your own voyage to the White Continent, prepare for wonder, laughter and a journey that will stay with you long after you return home.