Crossing the Drake Passage: What to Expect
If anything puts people off an Antarctica trip, it is the Drake Passage, the stretch of water between the tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula. My husband Doug did not come for exactly this reason, he gets seasick at the mere sight of a boat. So if you are nervous, you are in good company. Here is the honest picture.
What the Drake actually is
The Drake Passage is where the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans meet, which is why it can be lively. It usually takes around two days to cross each way. People talk about the Drake Shake and the Drake Lake, because it can be anything from genuinely rough to surprisingly calm.
What ours was like
Outbound, we hit a real storm. I woke to the creak of the cabin and the ship swaying, half expecting to roll out of bed. The crossing on the way back, by contrast, was completely fine. So it really can go either way, sometimes on the same trip.
My one mistake, so you can avoid it
I almost never get seasick, so I was overconfident and took no medication. Then, lying awake in the storm, I made the classic error of reading on my phone.
Twenty minutes later I felt awful, and after breakfast I had to sway my way back to the cabin. Our wonderful cabin steward, Jonathan, spotted me and arrived with a handful of sick bags I had walked straight past.
The lesson is simple. Take seasickness medication before the crossing, not after, and keep your eyes on the horizon rather than a screen. Once I started the medication I was completely fine for the rest of the trip.
The ship is built for it
It is reassuring how everything on board is designed for movement. Nothing slides around, and within a day or two you genuinely find your sea legs.
A few people did stay in their cabins during the worst of it, so if you are prone to seasickness, plan for it rather than hope.
If you would rather not sail it
For some itineraries there is the option to fly across the Drake instead of sailing it, joining the ship on the Peninsula side. If seasickness is a serious concern, it is worth asking your operator whether a fly-cruise option is available.
More on choosing your trip in The Best Time to Visit Antarctica and How to Choose Your Expedition.
The honest verdict
The Drake is part of the adventure, and for most people it is very manageable with a little preparation. Do not let it be the thing that stops you. What waits on the other side is worth every wave.
Read our full Antarctica planning guide to put the whole trip together.
