What an Antarctica Expedition Is Really Like
People often ask what it is actually like to spend two weeks on an expedition ship in Antarctica. Here is the honest version, from someone who was not at all sure cruising would be for her!
Settling into ship life
I shared a cabin with a friend. To be honest neither of us spent much time in there because there was so much to do and see on the ship itself. The balcony was the exception. I would sit out and watch the world go by, and on landing days I could see the zodiacs setting off.
The food was very good, with two restaurants to choose between, themed evenings, and drinks included. My only real challenge was not eating too much.
The rhythm of the days
You fall into a routine faster than you would think. Most mornings I would get up before everyone else, go to the science centre, and have a quiet cup of tea while the ship was still. The expedition team ran lectures and talks every day, and there was even time for the odd unexpected thing, like making a clay penguin.
Each evening brought a briefing on the next day’s plan, so you always knew what was coming and could choose how to spend your time.
Going ashore
Landings are the heart of it. You are called down by group, you get tapped off the ship, climb into a zodiac, and it carries you to a spot where you can step onto land. Coming back, your boots are washed every single time.
The crew set out marked paths to follow, and walking poles help, because it can be icy and slippery underfoot. If your mobility is limited it is worth knowing the landings can be a little tricky, though there are always people on hand to help.
The wildlife
Nothing quite prepares you for the wildlife. The penguins are everywhere, and they could not care less about you.
On one landing, two of them simply stood on their penguin highway and refused to budge, and a whole group of us stood there taking photos, unable to pass, because the penguins had right of way.
We saw several species, including chinstrap and macaroni penguins, and there were whales and seabirds too.
The moments that stay with you
The landscapes are what I cannot really put into words. The pureness of it, the icebergs in every shade from azure to white, and you standing there feeling like a tiny figure in an enormous, untouched place.
One landing took us up a hill to an iceberg graveyard. Another, an old whaling station, was atmospheric and a little eerie, a reminder of a history we are glad is behind us.
We were extremely lucky with the weather. The sun shone, and the captain kept telling us how fortunate we were.
One of my favourite moments was simply opening the curtains each morning, in 24-hour daylight, never knowing what would be outside. One day it was a vast snow-covered mountain right beside the ship.
After two weeks I was ready to step back onto dry land, but I would do it all again in a heartbeat.
More practical detail in our guide to planning an Antarctica expedition cruise and what to pack.
