An expedition ship anchored in a bay below snowy mountains, with penguins on the rocks, Antarctica

Antarctica Travel Guide

Plan your trip with people who’ve been there

Thinking about Antarctica and not sure where to start? It’s a big trip, and a lot of it is new even if you’ve travelled a lot.

I’d dreamed of Antarctica for years, and in November I finally went, sailing from Ushuaia with HX Expeditions on the MS Roald Amundsen. I made eight landings, went out on a zodiac cruise and went kayaking, and we had four sunny days in a row that the captain called once in a lifetime.

This page brings together everything we’ve written about it, from choosing an expedition and getting across the Drake Passage to what to pack.

Tracy taking a selfie with Gentoo penguins and snowy mountains behind in Antarctica

Me with the Gentoo penguins

Tracy smiling in front of the large white Ushuaia letters beside the harbour
Ushuaia
A penguin highway worn into the snow in Antarctica
Penguin highway
A vivid blue iceberg floating in Antarctic waters
Blue iceberg
Tracy taking a selfie with penguins and snowy mountains behind in Antarctica
Me and the penguins
A seal resting on a flat iceberg with snowy mountains reflected in the water
Seal on the ice

Plan your Antarctica trip

Our guides, in the order you will probably need them.

Penguins on snow with an expedition ship and mountains behind

How to plan an Antarctica cruise

A first-timer’s guide to choosing and booking your expedition.

Snowy mountains mirrored in calm water

The best time to visit

Month by month, and how to choose your expedition.

Flat, calm water on the Drake Passage

Crossing the Drake Passage

What the crossing is really like, and how to cope.

Tracy in waterproof layers with walking poles on a landing

What to pack

My complete Antarctica packing checklist.

Tracy in a bobble hat with kayakers on calm water behind

What it’s really like

A day on board and going ashore.

Penguins gathered on snow beneath towering mountains

Things nobody tells you

What surprised me most about visiting Antarctica.

Tracy wrapped up warm on a zodiac during an Antarctica landing
Zodiac time
Huge snowy mountains rising above the water in Antarctica
The scale of it
Rows of rubber muck boots provided on board for Antarctica landings
Muck boots
A balcony cabin on MS Roald Amundsen with a sea view
My cabin
Broken sea ice floating on dark blue water in Antarctica
Sea ice

Getting there via Argentina

I had a night in Buenos Aires on the way down and a full day on the way back.

Tracy in front of the Ushuaia letters

Argentina travel tips

Most expeditions leave from Ushuaia, so you will pass through Argentina.

Colourful buildings on Caminito in La Boca, Buenos Aires

South America travel guide

Buenos Aires, Ushuaia and our South America guides.

Before you go

What we sort out before every trip.

eSIM

Get data as soon as you land in Argentina with a Saily eSIM. You set it up on your phone before you go.

Travel insurance

For Antarctica, check your policy covers expedition cruises and medical evacuation. We never travel without it.

VPN

A VPN keeps your banking and bookings safer on ship and hotel Wi-Fi.

Tracy holding an Antarctica seventh continent flag in the snow
Continent seven!
A lone penguin on a snowy slope under blue sky in Antarctica
Hello there
Tracy in a bobble hat with a zodiac and kayakers on calm water behind
Kayakers out
Tracy in a blue expedition parka holding a walking pole on a snow slope above a glacier
Paradise Bay
Snowy mountains mirrored in glassy calm water in Antarctica
Mirror calm

Listen: Antarctica on the podcast

My chat with fellow travellers from the same voyage.

▶️ Watch the episodes on our YouTube channel

Stopping in the Falklands

Our expedition stopped in the Falkland Islands on the way, and I came away wishing we’d had more time there and booked Volunteer Point sooner. If your cruise calls at Stanley, listen to episode 107 first. Falkland Islander Roxy King-Clark explains how to spend a day in port and which penguin trips to book well ahead.